Day 96

Today was Corpus Christi or Fronleichnam in German, so everything was closed and there was a procession. A procession is sort of like a parade except no one is running sirens or throwing candy. There were lots of little girls in white dresses,

lots of people carrying really heavy religious icons,

and a few people carrying stools to set the really heavy icons on whenever the procession stopped for something.

These seemed to be the most famous/important/cool icons:

And then at the end i got to see the Bishop.

Day 82

Thursday morning was an early one, because Robyn and Laura’s plane left at six. We were up and out by four, and i decided to try and catch some sunrise light over the Charles Bridge before my train left at eight. Unfortunately the sunrise part was a bust as the morning dawned grey and cloudy =( I took some pictures anyway and it was kinda cool to be up before the crowds.

Look there was no one on the Charles Bridge!! Haha actually this was just a well-timed photo as there were probably a dozen or so tourists wandering about. Who knew tourists could be so motivated?

These are “Love Locks.” Lovers lock them onto a bridge and then throw the key into the river thereby sealing their love forever.

the Old Town city hall

Day 81

I knew i could not live in Germany for an entire semester and not have some exposure to WWII tragedies, and on Wednesday the time finally came. Lidice is a short day trip from Prague, so on Wednesday afternoon when she was done teaching, Robyn’s aunt took us.

Lidice was a small town of around 500 people until 1942 when Hitler, pissed off about the assassination of  Reinhard Heydrich, ordered its destruction. The assassins and approximately 2,000 other Czechs had already been killed, but Hitler’s rage was still not satiated. He had originally wanted 30,000 Czechs killed, but his advisers pointed out that such a mass killing would have a negative impact on the labor force. Lidice was a small out of the way village that had loose connections to the assassination (i think one of the assassins had a second cousin there or something?), so it was here that Hitler decided to enact his revenge. The men and boys over 15 were lined up and shot, while the women and children (except for a few who were considered suitable for Germanisation) were separated and taken to concentration camps. The children were soon gassed. The village was completely destroyed. They burned all the buildings, dug up the orchards, and bulldozed the land effectively wiping Lidice off the map.

There is now a memorial and a park where the town used to be:


The English part of the sign read:

“Separation of men from the families”
“Shot dead men”
“Separation of children”

“Liberation of women from concentration camp”
“Return to mother country”
“Life at peacefule Lidice”

“82 Children of Lidice Gassed by the Nazis in 1942.

In Memory of the milliongs of children who perished in the second world war.”

On a lighter note there were also these weird upside down trees.

After touring the memorial for awhile, we headed back to Prague to wander around a bit before dinner with the family.

This is the sweet astronomical clock! It tells like six different kinds of time and when it goes off on the hour a number of apostles come out depending on what time it is.


Remember the “Hungarian Specialty” from the Bamberg fair? Yeah same stuff only Robyn got her’s with cheese.

I love fish fountains =)

We wanted to go in the Jewish quarter, but unfortunately it was closed when we got there. Back in the 13th century the Jews were all ordered to leave their homes and move to this one section of town. The section was walled off and Jews were restricted in their movements outside of the quarter. Near the end of the 16th century the ghetto became more prosperous and it was also around this time that the Maharal was supposed to create the Golem.

I was particularly interested in the Jewish quarter and the Golem legend because i had recently read He, She, and It for my American literature course (hey i wanted one class i knew i would understand). The class is about cyborgs and this novel had parallel stories: one set in the future about a cyborg named Yod, and the other a story told to Yod by the grandmother about the Golem legend. Before reading this book i had never heard of the Golem legend, so i was pretty psyched to go to Prague and realize it was kind of a big thing. Of course the version i read was not the original, but there were still a lot of similarities and it was interesting to get to see the setting in person.

This is the Synagogue

And this is the super crowded graveyard.

After walking around for a bit, we headed back to the house and Robyn’s family took us out for some amazing Czech food. It was by far the best meal i’ve had since leaving home, and i was so grateful to Robyn and her family for taking me in and showing us such a good time.

Day 80

Tuesday morning we woke up bright but not so early. Micha, Robyn’s cousin, was free for the afternoon so she showed us around. We went to Petrin Hill first and on the way saw these statues. I tried to find out the name and sculptor and stuff, but all i was able to learn was that it is supposed to represent Czech life under communist rule.

We got to take this cool train up the hill! The hill was so steep the cars are actually slanted so the inside (seats and floors) are flat.

At the top of the hill were some sweet gardens. Micha said she often came up here to study and do homework, and i can definitely see why.

The main attraction to Petrin hill is not the gardens, however; it’s the mini Eiffel tower! It was built in 1891, and even though it’s shorter than the original at only 60 meters (197 feet), the top is actually higher due to it being built on top of a hill.

299 steps later and this is our reward =)

Prague Castle

After descending from the tower we saw this mirror maze. I had never been in a mirror maze before, so i had always kind of wondered what was so maze like about them. It was super cool! I managed to not run into any mirrors, but i did get close a couple times.

After Petrin hill we were ready for a little snack before heading over to Prague castle. Micha treated us to this Czech pastry. It’s basically a strip of dough spun around a rod (see the enlarged one on the right side of the stand) and then covered with sugar.

Micha directed us to the castle, but then she had to return home. St. Vitus’s cathedral is easily the most prominent feature of the castle complex. It’s very huge, very Gothic, and very impressive.

The smaller but still cool St George’s Basilica

After looking at the churches we headed over to the Golden Lane. The Golden Lane is a street of houses inside the northern fortifications which was given to the marksmen who guarded that part of the wall. Of course the space was very limited so they built these super small houses.

It was a short commute though. The marksmen just had to go up the stairs and they were in the wall ready to keep watch or defend.

They had these cool spinny things in all the holes so the archers were more protected while they were shooting or they could completely block the hole if they needed to reload or something.

You could pay to shoot the crossbow. I didn’t try it, but Robyn did and it looked really difficult to aim.

The Old Royal Palace

Crown of St Wencesias

After the castle we wandered back down to the main part of the city and headed over to Charles Bridge. We got there on the hour so we got to witness this guy trumpeting the time.

There were a lot of cool statues on the bridge, but this one was definitely my favorite =)

Day 79

On Monday morning i got up bright and early (that’s actually not a contradiction here since the sun rises at 4) and attended my German class. Two hours later i was back in my apartment, furiously packing for my next big adventure. Thirty minutes after that i was at the train station waging war with the ticket machine. At first i went through the entire process until it asked me for my bahncard and i realized i had left it at my apartment. Then i had to start all the way at the beginning again and got as far as the part where you pay, when it wouldn’t accept my money. I couldn’t figure out why it wasn’t taking my money, but as i was looking for different bills to try i ended up finding my bahncard. So i started back at the beginning again. When i got to the end though, it still would not take my money and i realized it was being stingy with the change. It would only accept near perfect change or a credit card, neither of which i possessed. At last, seriously annoyed, i went in to the ticket office to buy it from a person. Why didn’t i make this my first option? Because about half the time the tickets are cheaper when you buy them from a machine and i’m a stingy traveler. Thankfully i had also arrived at the train station really early.

After acquiring my ticket, i enjoyed an hour ride to Nuremberg, a five minute panicked search for the bus, and then a four hour bus ride next to a very cool Russian lady. The lady was having trouble getting the sim card out of her phone so she asked me to help. I did my best, but it was really stuck in there. She dropped one of the other pieces while she was working on it though and i was able to ask the guy behind us to pick it up for her in German. Of course this whole time she’s talking to me super fast in Czech and i’m just nodding along politely. I figure in Germany they always pick up when i don’t understand, so maybe she just feels like talking? Then she asks me a question, though, so i told her (in German i think) that i couldn’t understand. We then proceeded to have the great get-to-know-you conversation (a personal favorite of mine) in a combination of German and English. She was fluent in German since she had been working there, but she also spoke broken English. I am obviously the opposite, so i mostly spoke in German and she mostly spoke in English and in that way we were able to understand almost the entire conversation.

At last it was 6:00 and we were pulling into Prague! This was the first time i had left Germany since arriving in Europe and it was so cool to see signs in a language that i didn’t even understand a little bit. Czech is so different from anything i’ve ever studied and it was actually kind of refreshing to have absolutely zero clue what people were saying. I actually expend a lot of effort unintentionally when i’m around Germans because i know it a little too well to tune it out, but not well enough to really understand.

Anyway i had arrived at the Prague train station and it was time to find my friends. My friend Robyn is from Maryland and we lived together two summers ago on Summer Project with Campus Crusade for Christ in New Hampshire. A couple of weeks previously she had posted on her facebook that she was looking forward to her trip to Europe. Of course, being in Europe myself, i was curious as to which countries she would be visiting. A few facebook messages later and i was getting to stay with her family in Prague for three days and she and the friend she was traveling with would pick me up at the train station. (Needless to say i’m a huge fan of social media right now.)

Of course picking me up at the train station ended up being a lot harder in practice than theory. I realized when i got off the bus that i wasn’t 100% positive where we were meeting, but i remembered German train stations usually had a main info stand in the middle area that seemed like a logical meeting place. Of course these train station had no less than five info areas. Crap. So i starting cycling through them, figuring that Robyn and her friend knew where they wanted to meet me so if i walked around long enough i was bound to run into them eventually. I didn’t. I wandered that train station for about an hour wondering what my chances were of finding a hostel at this hour or whether it would be better just to sleep in the train station. I had my laptop with my so i started trying to get online in case Robyn got facebook messages to her phone (yeah i really miss my cellphone. Meeting up with people was so much easier back in the good ol’ days of texting…). It turns out Burger King had wifi, so i stood in line to get the password. Of course there were two Burger King networks and the one i had gotten the password to was also the one i was barely picking up a signal for.

The internet was a fail, so i ended up just walking down to what i decided was maybe the most likely spot to meet them (i had already spent maybe 20 minutes waiting there) and just chill there for the rest of the night. So i’m walking down the ramp, i turn the corner and there in the distance is a shinning yellow UMD t-shirt, a wonderful pink UMD baseball hat and in between the beautiful face of my friend Robyn screaming my name with the same sort of relief i felt.

The rest of the night was decidedly less stressful. We took the bus back to Robyn’s family’s apartment where her aunt fed us traditional Czech “pancakes”* which were kind of like hashbrowns… kind of. She also gave us Czech beer and we all had a glass of champagne to celebrate Robyn’s cousin’s completion of her law exams. Then we all hung out talking for awhile (in English yay!) and headed to bed.

*I’ve had Czech pancakes and i’ve had German pancakes and neither of them tasted anything like American pancakes. I guess if it’s flat and round and made in a pan it’s a pancake?

Day 78

This morning it was a beautiful day so Tine and i decided to meet up in the afternoon to hang out in the park and Benni brought his slackline. I had only tried slacklining once before when i ran into some people doing it on the horseshoe on my way to get dinner. I hadn’t had much success then, but i did much better today. By the end of the afternoon i was able to stand on it quite easily and even walk several steps.

After awhile Tine’s friend joined us with her dog, and Tine was able to convince her to go swimming. By this point the day was no longer sunny or particularly warm and that river is ridiculously cold. I decided to photograph instead.

Day 77

Today was our long awaited trip to Würzburg! We had attempted this day trip at least twice before, but it kept getting pushed back for one reason or another. It was finally time though, and unlike previous travels, we had actually done some research ahead of time so we knew where we wanted to go and what we wanted to see.

The first stop was the Residenz.

I’m fairly sure we weren’t supposed to be in here. I saw people walking out of a door so i went in and down some stairs and found myself in the wine cellar. There were some other people there on a tour, and after we all left the guide put a chain across the door where i entered. Oops.

After looking at the wine cellar we went in to take a tour of the Residenz rooms. They put us in a waiting area, but we didn’t really want to wait for the next tour because we would miss the wine tour later on, so we took a few pictures and wandered around until we caught up with the tour in front of us.

Once you got past the stairs there were signs telling you not to take pictures. I don’t know how strict they are about that since i definitely wasn’t the only one sneaking pics, but i also didn’t want to press my luck too hard so i only got a couple and they’re not that great.

In this one you can see where the artist combined sculpture with the painting (the blue blanket and the legs) in the popular style of the time period.

This was my favorite room. It was so shiny with all of the mirrors and gold! There were painting on all the mirrors and the way they did it the painting are actually behind the mirror. I’m not really sure how that worked but they had a whole display on it after the tour.

After the tour we took a brief stroll through the gardens behind the Residenz. They were amazing!! Germany seriously has some of the coolest gardens.

After we walked through the gardens we climbed a giant mountain (it seemed like it anyway) to get up to the vineyard for our tour. Würzburg is part of the Franconian wine region which lies along the Main river. Franconia is not nearly as well know for wine as the Rhineland, but it’s a lot closer and less touristy. Of course this also meant that the tour was in German. What i did pay attention to was not particularly interesting though, so i gave up after awhile and just enjoyed the awesome view. At the end of the tour we all got a glass of the wine and, while i’m far from a connoisseur, i thought it was pretty tasty.

The vines were all in flower mode, and the grapes won’t actually come until around August.

Day 76

Today we went to the fair! Except for the lack of fried butter, i think it was a lot like American fairs, but then i can’t remember the last time i was at a fair in America…

They had a pony for every age =)

The workers on this ride were really fun to watch cause they would walk out into the middle and run around and stuff.

This is the ride we ended up going on. It was the most expensive, but also the coolest by far!

And apparently elephant ears are a “Hungarian specialty.” Who knew?

Day 69

Today was a rather rainy Friday, but i had noticed yesterday that there were suddenly roses blooming everywhere. Ever since i had seen the Rose Garden that first weekend in Bamberg, i had been waiting patiently for the roses to bloom so i could return and see it in its proper glory, and despite the weather, today was that day.

The orangey-pink ones were my favorite =)

There is a pretty good view of St Michael’s church from the garden. I had never been there before and Juliann said it was really cool on the inside so we took the bus up the mountain to check it out.

It ended up being closed =( but there were some pretty sweet views and a little garden area in the back.

Sheep!!!

Days 49 & 57

Schloss Seehof, which roughly translates to ‘lake courtyard palace,’ is Bamberg’s local palace. It’s actually located in the town over, but you can get there on a regular city bus so it feels like a part of Bamberg.

In any case the palace was built as one of three summer residences for the prince bishops of Würzburg and Bamberg and was used as a hunting lodge. The grounds contain a hundred acres of lake and the grounds and interior are decorated with extensive hunting imagery. The palace was built by Prince Bishop Marquard Sebastian Schenk von Stauffenberg in the late 1600’s, but was greatly improved upon by several of the succeeding princes especially Price Bishop Adam Friedrich von Seinsheim.

Von Seinsheim spent a good deal of his time at the palace, and in addition to hunting and walking, he used it to indulge his love for gardening. He is also responsible for the cascades on the lake side of the palace. After his death, however, Prince Bishop Franz Ludwig von Erthal took over and believed more in using the country’s money for social projects than spending it on his own palaces, so Schloss Seehof began to fall into disrepair and much of the furnishings and statues were sold off. Eventually the state of Bavaria bought the palace and has done much toward its restoration, including fixing the fountain which now runs every hour on the hour for about five minutes.

Memmelsdorf Gate

The Orangery

The palace was constructed as four halls making a square with a tower at each corner. In the center is this nice little courtyard.

Various statues surround the palace, but i found this one particularly entertaining. I always figured women back in the day went around in poofy dresses acting all faint and “lady like,” but apparently this young woman just cut off some poor sap’s head and is displaying it proudly. Who knew?

The River Main (the figure on the other side is the Regnitz)

Palaces are for lovers =)

The gardens are my personal favorite part. There are these amazing tree hedges and tunnels and so many beautiful meadows filled with wild flowers. It’s the perfect place to bring a picnic and just enjoy a summer afternoon.